How to bend thick branches while making a bonsai?
There are lots of methods which are utilized for bending thick branches. If the tree gets thick branchesthen the branch is weakened to make it even more elastic then bent into the desired place. Branch weakening techniques are finished so as to operate on thick branches which would usually be unmovable. These techniques must be performed only on healthy branches and trees which are powerful enough to heal and recuperate itself out of the significant injury.
The 1 drawback with these methods is that big wounds are generated which might have a very long time to cure or might never heal. Such wounds need to be reached in a manner they aren't visible to the viewer and if it's visible, it needs to be covered up in this way in order to seem like natural deadwood attributes such as an'Uro' or even a'Shari'.
WHY BRANCHES SHOULD BE WEAKENED BEFORE BENDING
The trunks and branches of a tree include a layer of tissue, which lies just under the bark enclosing a deceased wooden center. This core is present to supply the structure and strength to the branches and trunk.
This arrangement supports the cells that are life and retains the foliage in place and can also be powerful enough to encourage the branches so it does not fall under its own weight or if subjected to the components of character.
It's that this deadwood or the internal core of dead cells the bonsai practitioner functions upon by weakening or eliminating it, so the surrounding living cells alongside the branch could be flexed.
There are quite a few methods for ridding a branch, which means it may be flexed, but everyone is advanced methods that are insecure and may result in the passing of a branch if care isn't taken.
IDEAL TIME FOR DOING THESE PRACTICES
These techniques cause a lot of injury to the branch that's being flexed and should always be performed during the growing period once the tree is actively growing.
The ideal time is by the center of summer for late summer as during that time, a tree is going to be strong and vigorous and there'll be lots of time for those wounds to begin recovery, lowering the probability of dieback or disease.
Whether this technique is performed through the dormancy period, the damaged area won't cure leaving the wound exposed to the character and also to additional injury for quite a while.
NOTCHING
Notching is a really straightforward and simple technique that may be performed easily and is helpful for bending thick branches that are hard to bend. This technique is much more appropriate to deciduous and broadleaf species compared to conifers.
The cut ought to be made deep enough and ought to be roughly halfway throughout the width of this branch to be flexed, so the branch may bend easily. The branch where a notch is created has to be wired or guy wired to maintain the branch set up, whereas the wounds heal and callus.
A wound glue is implemented across the exposed cambium of those trees to stop the disease. Later since the wound callus above, the 2 sides of the notch graft grow and together.
Yet this technique has a propensity to generate a thick and hardened outer coating called callus in the region of the top-notch.
HOLLOWING
This is much like notching but reduces the back or branch out of dividing too much. It leaves slightly more busy xylem on the branch. The shrub is hollowed out of the trunk so it isn't visible to the viewer in the front.
Occasionally wires are placed within the hollow so it remains in place and doesn't combine together. The bend could be anything from a slow bend into some sharp bend.
The drawback of the technique is that there'll be a massive scar and likelihood of reverse osmosis based on the distribution from the hollowed-out area.
CHANNELLING
Channeling entails removing a station of timber from across the length of the branch to ensure a sharp bend can be reached in a little region of the branch. Before channeling is completed and if a very heavy branch has been flexed, it would not be possible to bend it without cracking or snapping up the branch.
To prevent breaking up the branch, the branch is stripped from the bark along with also a groove or channel that is carved to the branch to make it slimmer and more flexible.
SPLITTING
Breaking it into two bits makes it more elastic and so simple to bend into the desired place. The drawback of using this technique is that it creates a massive scar, there's a chance of inverse osmosis and occasionally among those 2 halves may perish.
This approach is used mainly for slow bends. A thick trunk or division could be divided into 2, three, or four parts so it is easy to flex them. After dividing and bending, the numerous pieces are tied back together and they'll fuse into one trunk or division as began but using its new form.
Splitting does have its own place in the art of bonsai and can be used whenever there's a need to flex a live part of a branch or trunk from the deadwood. The option is to take out the deadwood completely in the live wood so the live wood could be flexed. This is comparable to channeling.
PRECAUTIONS
Notching, hollowing, channeling, and dividing all take the true danger of causing the death of a limb or perhaps the shrub itself should not be completed properly and the appropriate aftercare supplied. These are complex practices and must be carried out only on healthy, vigorous trees and branches which can withstand such weakening methods.
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